Australia's Sunscreen Scandal: Is Your SPF High Enough?

Top sunscreen brands in Australia were found to make misleading claims about their SPF content, potentially putting consumers at risk for insufficient sun protection. Should Americans also be worried?

The investigation by consumer advocacy group Choice released in August found that of 20 popular sunscreen brands labeled SPF 50+, 16 failed to meet their SPF claims.

SPF, short for sun protection factor, is a measure of how effective sunscreen is at protecting the skin from ultraviolet B radiation (UVB) rays, also known as 'burning rays.' The higher the number, the better protection sunscreen provides.

For example, SPF 15 filters out 93% of the sun's UVB rays, while SPF 30 filters out 97%. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using an SPF 30 or higher.

According to the Choice's report, the SPF content in the products that failed to meet their claims ranged from as low as 4 to 43. Some of these sunscreens have since been removed from shelves.

The findings sent shockwaves across Australia, the country with one of the highest skin cancer rates in the world. About two in three Australians will be diagnosed with some form of skin cancer during their lifetime.

This is partly because the sun is more dangerous in Australia due to higher ultraviolet (UV) radiation and its proximity to the equator. Moreover, descendants of European immigrants often have fairer skin types, making them more vulnerable to sun damage.

How is sunscreen regulated in the US?

Many Australian consumers are now left asking whether they have been properly protected from the sun. The scandal also made headlines in the international media, raising questions about the reliability of sunscreen products elsewhere.

In 2016, Consumer Reports, an American nonprofit consumer organization, examined 60 sun-protective lotions, sprays, sticks, and lip balms. Of those, 23 tested at less than half their labeled SPF number.

Sunscreens in the US are regulated as over-the-counter (OTC) drugs by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Such regulations oblige companies to perform laboratory testing before they can put an SPF number on the label, according to Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at DermOnDemand.

That's reassuring because it means there's a standard in place. However, I don't think the system is perfect because there isn't routine retesting of products once they're already on store shelves.

Dr. Hannah Kopelman

Every approved filter – sunscreen's active ingredient – is assigned the so-called GRASE status, short for Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective, says Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, MD, a double-board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology in NYC. Currently, only two filters — zinc oxide and titanium dioxide — hold this status.

GRASE status is based on the conclusion of a scientific expert panel and a history of safe use. However, it also means the products don't need prior approval before they reach the shelves.

Dr. Geeta Yadav, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology, says the mismatch between the actual SPF level and the one stated on the label may stem from how SPF testing is done. It involves administering products on the human skin and evaluating the degree of burn caused by UV exposure while testing the product.

Yadav explains that variations in behavior or opinion can be an issue. For example, one tester's 'light pressure' when applying sunscreen may be heavier than another's. Similarly, the change in skin color caused by a burn is evaluated by human vision, rather than technology.

Another potential issue may be bias, as brands often tell testing labs a projected SPF range for their submitted product.

How a product performs during a lab test is always going to be different than a test performed by an individual. Lab tests are administered indoors under UV lamps, and water resistance is tested by submerging skin in water under that lamp. Exposure to water and sweat with a more accurate real-life test, such as swimming or running, can skew the results.

Dr. Greeta Yadav

Nevertheless, she says most SPF labels are accurate, and consumers shouldn't worry about the mismatch. However, using a product with SPF 30 or higher will increase the likelihood of getting adequate SPF. Meanwhile, sunscreens that use chemical filters tend to perform better on these real-life SPF tests than mineral formulas.

Sara A. Dudley, CEO at The Sunscreen Company, says the US sunscreen regulations are not stringent enough to prevent the Australian scenario. She mainly attributes this to inter-laboratory variability with respect to SPF testing.

For example, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), which created one of the world's most used SPF testing methods, allows for a 30% difference in results between different labs.

"This means that one laboratory could give a brand an SPF 50 and another lab could give an SPF 35, and this would be within an allowable range. Unless regulatory bodies start mandating that brands test at multiple labs and average the results, SPFS can test out as high and then low depending on the lab used," Dudley tells WellnessPulse.

How do I choose an effective sunscreen?

Kopelman recommends that her patients choose brands with a long track record of reliability. She advises looking for 'broad-spectrum' and 'water-resistant' on the label because those terms are tightly regulated in the US.

"I like when a product carries the Skin Cancer Foundation seal or has been evaluated by independent groups like Consumer Reports. It gives me extra confidence that what's on the label matches what's inside the bottle," Kopelman tells WellnessPulse.

Kazlouskaya says choosing sunscreens that contain 10–25% of mineral ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide is a reliable way to ensure broad and safe protection.

She says, "While there can be some variation between products, most sunscreens provide at least minimal protection. If you find one you like, it's best to stick with it, since consistency in use is the most important factor."

How do I protect my skin from the sun?

British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey has recently revealed he underwent skin cancer surgery. In his Instagram statement, Ramsay encouraged followers to use sunscreen.

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A post shared by Gordon Ramsay (@gordongram)

While sunscreen is one of the cornerstones of skin cancer prevention, no product offers 100% protection. That's why it is essential to pair high SPF sunscreen with the following measures, according to the American Academy of Dermatology

• Staying in the shade
• Wearing sun-protective clothing, such as a lightweight and long-sleeved shirt, pants, and a wide-brimmed hat
• Wearing sunglasses with UV protection

Sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours, also every time after being in water and towelling off. Consider more frequent reapplication when sweating.

Sunscreens labeled 'water resistant' will stay on the wet skin for 40 to 80 minutes, depending on the brand.

The AAD recommends choosing sunscreen labeled as 'broad spectrum,' which means it can protect the skin from UVB and ultraviolet A light (UVA) rays.

Yadav says people don't apply sunscreen as well as they think they do. The body needs at least a full shot glass worth of SPF, while the face and neck need 1/4 teaspoon each.

If you're still getting sunburned or tanning even though you're applying enough and reapplying every couple of hours, the sunscreen isn't working, according to Kopelman.

"I also pay attention to things like smell, texture, or separation. If a sunscreen looks or feels 'off,' it might be expired or degraded, and I won't use it," she says.

The verdict

While the US has stringent sunscreen regulations in place, the lack of routine retesting of products once they are already on store shelves may raise the risk that the SPF level doesn't match the one stated on the label.

Most importantly, sunscreen is only one part of sun protection, which should include staying in the shade and wearing protective clothes and sunglasses.